For the past several weeks, the Totem Team and some of the members of Kumugwe Cultural Society have been deeply immersed in an unforgettable cultural exchange with the Ngāti Toa and Ngāi Tahu tribes in Aotearoa (New Zealand). This experience has been more than just an exchange of traditions—it has been a profound journey of learning, connection, and witnessing the remarkable resilience of another Indigenous nation.

A Warm Welcome on Unceded Ancestral Lands

Te Papa Museum, Wellington

We have been graciously hosted by Ngāti Toa, who welcomed us with open arms and powerful ceremonies. Our first days here have been filled with deep experiences, starting with a tour of their unceded ancestral territories around Porirua and Plimmerton. Standing upon multiple beachlines, hilltops, and forests, we took time to ground ourselves in key areas of their lands—feeling the deep presence of their ancestors.

Our second Pōwhiri (formal welcoming ceremony) brought us to one of their urban marae, built in the 1960s, while the marae we are staying at was built in 1990. Each space holds generations of stories, community, and renewal. Walking through their beautifully carved ancestral walls, woven panels, and cultural symbols, we were moved by the sheer dedication to their cultural revival and resilience.

Shared Histories, Strengthened Futures

There is something profoundly moving about seeing the parallels between our nations’ histories. We recognize the familiar weight of colonial impacts—yet, here we are, standing strong, continuing the work of language revival, art reclamation, and community healing.

Ngāti Toa’s achievements in cultural restoration have been nothing short of inspiring. From the carving and weaving of ancestral representations to the revitalization of language and ceremony, they have fought to preserve and empower their identity. Their Harvesting Calendar, shared with us by Mary Jane (shown below) is a brilliant example of how ancestral knowledge continues to guide their connection to land and sustenance.

Mary Jane, a local weaver, showing us their tribe's Harvesting Calendar

Mahi Toi: The Sharing of Cultural Practices

One of the most deeply enriching experiences of this exchange was the opportunity to engage in Mahi Toi—the sharing of cultural practices—with our Ngāti Toa friends.

Together, we immersed ourselves in:

• Weaving & Carving – Learning the intricacies of traditional weaving and wood carving, each pattern infused with cultural meaning.

• Jewelry Making & Kiri Tuhi (Māori Tattooing) – Understanding the significance of personal adornment and the deep stories carried in moko (tattoos).

• Plant Medicine Work – Sharing ancestral knowledge of medicinal plants, their healing properties, and how they are used in ceremony and daily life.

• Singing & Storytelling – Connecting through song, dance and the spoken word, ensuring that our traditions continue to live and thrive.

Charlotte teaching Jeannie and Marlo how to weave a basket from moka

A particular highlight was Nui Stretch, a carver being mentored by master carvers, who was with us throughout the exchange. Not only was he eager to share his growing skills, but he also became our trusted chauffeur—shuttling us ladies to the store (and anywhere else we needed to go!) He quickly earned his status as the most reliable ride-share driver in Ngāti Toa! We learned a lot from the time he spent with us.

Nui in between his mentors, demonstrating carving a waka (canoe)

Honoring a Literary Giant: Patricia Grace

A truly unforgettable moment was the honor of hearing Patricia Grace, a celebrated Māori author, read from her most recent published book. Patricia Grace is one of the most influential Māori writers of our time, known for her powerful storytelling that weaves together history, identity, and Indigenous perspectives. To listen to her words in her own voice, surrounded by our hosts and fellow travelers, was a moving experience.

A Gathering of Knowledge: Hosted by Awhina Tamarapa & Maikara

We were graciously hosted by Awhina Tamarapa—who is known as being a Māori curator at Te Papa Museum in Wellington for 20 years—and her husband, Maikara, a well respected cultural leader. Their generosity in welcoming us and sharing their vast knowledge provided an invaluable opportunity to learn from their decades of dedication to Māori art, history, and cultural preservation.

Maikara, Awhina & Andy presenting his latest print design symbolizing our connection

Their work in curating and protecting Māori artistic and historical treasures reflects the same efforts we undertake in our own communities—ensuring that our sacred items and our histories are protected, honored, and passed down with integrity.

Waitangi Day: A Powerful Reflection on Sovereignty

We also had the honor of presenting at Waitangi Day, a significant annual event marking the signing of the Treaty of Waitangi in 1840. While the treaty’s interpretation remains contentious, Māori continue to advocate for their inherent sovereignty and self-determination—a struggle that resonates deeply with our own histories.

Melanie, Marlo & Erin dancing at Watangi Day Festivities

At this major national gathering, we shared several songs and dances for the large audience, offering our voices and movement as a way to connect across nations and demonstrate our solidarity. The energy of the day was incredible, and let’s just say—we definitely left the stage feeling like cultural rockstars.

Andy & Erin backstage after our cultural sharing at Waitangi Day

South Island: Hosted by Paulette Tamati-Elliffe & Komene Cassidy in Dunedin

The second part of our journey took us to the South Island, in Dunedin, where we were graciously hosted by Paulette Tamati-Elliffe and Komene Cassidy. These two remarkable Māori leaders are renowned for their work in Māori language revitalization, being among the very first to raise their children entirely in te reo Māori immersion at home. Their dedication to reclaiming the language has inspired an entire movement, ensuring that te reo Māori continues to be spoken, lived, and passed down to future generations.

A Relationship Spanning Decades

This cultural exchange was especially significant for Andy Everson, who has had a longstanding relationship with Paulette and Komene since their first cultural exchange way, wayyyy back in 1996. We, along with other members of the Kumugwe Cultural Society hosted Paulette, Komene, and their cultural group in K’ómoks in 2017. We of course had plans to visit Aotearoa for a return of the exchange but then COVID happened and put our plans on hold. But--we finally made it!

And speaking of Paulette—she is not only an incredible leader and language warrior, but she is also absolutely hilarious and wildly feisty. She is the kind of person who can teach you something profound while also making you laugh so hard you cry. Her humor, and sharp comebacks make every conversation an adventure in itself.

School Visits & Cultural Sharing in Dunedin

We visited three schools—including a highlight for all of us at the Māori Immersion & Cultural school (K-13), Te Kura Kaupapa Māori o Ōtepoti. The principal (Tumuaki) is Kārena Wyllie (Komene’s sister), the very first time her students had ever heard her speak English, was to translate her welcome to our group.

We also visited the accredited Whānau Class that Komene teaches at Queen’s Girls’ High School.

Meeting With Māori Organizations:

We met with the Māori staff at the Te Aka a Tāwhaki at Otago University—where we were able to view Māori special collections.

At Aukaha, we engaged with an inspiring team working to uplift Māori artists, decolonize spaces by infusing Māori values into new buildings, developments, and organizations while at the same time, building Indigenous economies. Members of Kumugwe shared about our own cultural initiatives and partnerships—building bridges for future collaborations.

Archeology

One of the most fascinating experiences was our visit to an active archaeological site, where we met renowned Māori archaeologist Gerard O’Regan. Gerard’s (shown below on the right)   work is dedicated to uncovering and preserving the histories of Māori lands and ancestors, and hearing from him was nothing short of mind-blowing. As we stood on the excavation site, artifacts were being uncovered before our eyes, offering tangible proof of the deep Indigenous presence on these lands for countless generations. Several key discoveries were found just prior to our arrival, like a thread connecting the past to the present. Gerard’s storytelling brought these artifacts to life—transforming them from objects in the soil to powerful reminders of resilience, adaptation, and survival. 

Later, we visited Moeraki Boulders (Kaihinaki), where Gerard shared the oral history of these striking geological formations. The boulders, perfectly rounded and scattered along the beach like the remnants of an ancient world, hold deep significance for Māori. Hearing their origin story from a Māori perspective was a powerful reminder of how science and Indigenous knowledge are not separate—but interconnected ways of understanding the world.

Reflections & Gratitude

Each moment here has been a gift of knowledge, connection, and inspiration. The warmth and generosity of Awhina, Maikara, Nui, and Paulette, Komene, Cherie and Angelina all of our Māori hosts, the knowledge shared by artists and cultural leaders, and the unwavering strength of Indigenous nations continue to reaffirm our path forward. When we look at our children, and seeing how they too are choosing Indigenous partners who ensure the survival of our collective cultures, we have a lot to be hopeful about.

This exchange has not only strengthened the bonds between Kumugwe and Māori communities but also deepened our collective commitment to language, culture, and the power of Indigenous resurgence.

And while we leave with full hearts (and possibly an extra few pounds from all the amazing food we ate), we know that the friendships, lessons, and laughter will stay with us long after we leave these shores. 🌊✨

We look forward to hosting all of our Māori friends—who are now family—in the future. The circle continues, and we can’t wait to welcome them onto our lands with the same love, warmth, and generosity they have shown us.

G̱ilakas’la to Kumugwe Cultural Society, AHRC, and the FIRR Project team for making this exchange possible!

Haawa for reading this extra long, but extra important blog post!

Kalga Jaad Erin Brillon- Owner of Totem Design House

🔗 #AHRC #AHRC_FIRR #CulturalExchange #IndigenousResilience #Kumugwe #NgatiToa #MāoriLanguageRevitalization